00015.4.22 Analyzed by Candidate Master Daniel Waite
(All right! Courage! You will learn more from your
losses than you will from your wins. If you study the
games you lose you will see the patterns that get you
in trouble and common mistakes you make. If you
minimize these then you will improve quickly. A good
source for this study might be Soltis' "Catalogue of
Chess Mistakes.")
1.e4 c5 2.Nf3
Nc6 3.Bc4 d6
(Your move is a tad unusual but it works. Typically
the King's Bishop often finds its way to c4.
Traditionally the idea is to play 3. d4 cxd4 4. Nxd4
first.)
4.O-O Be6
(Your opponent errs. The
one thing you must be aware
of in the Opening is to grab any and all chances to
wreck your opponents pawn structure. Look at 5. Bxe6
fxe6 6. d4 cxd4 7. Nxd4 Nxd4 8. Qxd4 Nf6 9. f4. This
may be my personality but I feel Black has serious
problems organizing anything useful with the shattered
pawn structure. The only
redeeming quality is that
Black as three center pawns.)
5.d3 Bxc4 6.dxc4
Nf6 7.Re1 g6 8.Bf4
Bg7
(Remember to play with a plan!
The last few moves are
setting up a nice attack but do you understand what
you are trying? Often we
hear the mantra to develop,
so we develop and miss the point behind why we are
making the move. The idea
of the opening is to create
an "imbalance" [any difference in the position] -
especially in minor piece position - and develop
around it. One idea of
developing the Bishop to f4 is
to play h3 to give the Bishop a safe haven while
keeping the Knight at bay.
BTW the pawns at e4 and c4
are considered a strong strategy against the
Sicilian.)
9.Nc3 O-O 10.Rb1 Ng4
(Here you have to look at playing 10. Qd2 with the
idea of playing Bh6 to rid the game of the Dragon
Bishop. Also tempting is
to blast the center with 10.
e5!)
11.Nd5 Qa5
(It always helps when your opponent misses a solid
move. …Nge5)
12.h3 Nf6 13.e5 Nh6
(It looks like your move loses a pawn but it is a
gutsy idea. The
aggressiveness of your play will help
you as you learn the various tactical possibilities of
a position. One suggestion
is to concentrate on
pattern recognition. Learn
the various patterns
behind combinations. There
are probably only about 20
common ones.)
14.Bg5 Qxa2
(Ouch. Black begs White to
finish the game in a clean
stroke. There is an
"urban legend" that tells of a
rich guy that left his son a vast fortune on the
condition that he would never play Qxa2 even if it
were the correct move.
14…dxe4 or 14…f6 was necessary
to hold the balance.)
15.Nxe7+ Nxe7 16.Bxe7
Rfc8 17.b3 dxe5
(I find in my lost games that I generally had a "big
miss." Well, this one
is yours. After 17. exd6 the
game is over, you can hear the "fat lady warming up."
The pawn on d6 moves to d7 and completely chokes
Black's middle. The Black
Rooks become totally
useless and you own all the important squares. All
this is helped by the useless placement of the Black
Queen. Even 17. Ng5 does
close to mortal damage to
Black threatening both 18. exd6 and 18. Qd5.)
18.Nxe5 Nf4 19.Re4 Re8
(Please, do not help your opponent! Remember, never
force your opponent to do something you will regret.
19. Qc1! Attacks the Knight on f4, if that is what you
want, and holds the back line down nicely. One thing
you must learn is when a threat is real and when it is
not. The ideal is to
ignore your opponent's threats
and execute your own. To
do this you must learn to
distinguish between the real and the imagined.)
20.Nd3 Nxd3 21.Re2
Nf4
(21. cxd3 was necessary.
It is ugly but playable.
It's better than what happened.
White is saddled with
two "backward" pawns - on d3 and on b3. I'd call this
a positional nightmare, but against a weak opponent
you will have an interesting fight on your hands. The
squares in front of them are called "holes" where
Black will plant a piece.
This is called a
"blockade." The
strength of a blockade is that the
pawn is immobile. In
chess, if it doesn't [or can't]
move it will suffer violence.
Keep your position as
flexible as possible while coaxing your opponent into
making his as ridged as possible.
Another strength of
the blockade is that it is a base of operation against
the opponent. The
blockader can not be attacked
through the weak pawn.)
22.Re1 b6 23.Bg5
Rxe1+
(23. Qf3 or 23. Rc1. Your
idea of chasing the Knight
with the Bishop is misguided and at this point fatal.
Don't attack something for the sake of attacking.
Always ask yourself, "what is my opponent
threatening?"
"If I move this what can my opponent
threaten or take?"
You must have a solid positional
reason to attack.
Generally if it is mobile, look
somewhere else unless you are attempting to create a
weakness such as immobility or a poorly defended
piece. As much as possible
"over protect" everything
[pieces and important squares].
By creating an
interlocking web of pieces you will make them "all"
mobile [perfect for attack or defense]. Think
"internet."
Anything that "inters" it doesn't leave
with all its body parts.)
24.Qxe1 Ne2+ 25.Kf1 Qxc2
26.b4 cxb4 27.Rxb4
Re8 28.c5 bxc5
(O.K. your opponent is mortal after all. He misses
the "discovered attack." 28…Ng3+ 29. fxg3 Rxe1+.
This can be crushing if there is a check involved. Of
course 28…Bc3 forking Qe1 & Rb4 works. Next time you
see him, feel free to point this out to him and gloat
that he missed "all" the big moves in this game! -
grin)
29.Rb5 c4 30.f3
c3
(Black misses mate in five [forced]. Cover the screen
and figure it out.
30…Ng3+ 31. Kg1 Rxe1+ 32. Kh2 Nf1+ 33. Kh1 Ne3+ 34.
Kh2 Qxg2#. You should be
able to follow this in your
mind and see it at the board because they are all
forced moves. Track forced
moves all the way through.
Always consider
check. A check is a free move.
Following a "line of checks" often leads to
checkmate.)
31.g4 Qd3 32.Rc5
Qxf3+ 33.Qf2 Qh1+ 34.Qg1
Qxg1 #
(O.K. so he got you in four moves, but he needed your
help. An idea to prolong
the game would have been to
move your Q to b1 instead of moving the pawns. I
suspect when you start moving pawns you are out of
plans. Suggestions for
improvement: Keep up the
slash and attack
style. Be a threat to everyone you
meet. Put some effort into
learning pawn play.
"Pawns are the soul of chess." Most plans revolve
around the pawn structure.
If you get this down you
will become difficult for the "sharks" [2000+ players]
to handle. Don't give away
pieces! Don't force your
opponent to do anything you will regret. Don't panic
- if you find yourself tempted to move pawns sit on
your hands and breath [that's when you inhale and
exhale air from your lungs - I often forget in a tense
game] then look for a logical line that the position
demands. Keep examining
your lost games, your courage
will take you far! [I read
that on a "Chinese
fortune" cookie once - grin.] Develop an attitude: If
my opponent can beat me they will have to do it
without my help!)